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(Click map to change size.)
Cursed with an obsession for
maps, I spent last week finding things on the satellite imagery from
Google (an amazing resource). The result is above.
The most challenging image task was to find the edges of the DMZ ("Demilitarized Zone") itself.
It seems not to run exactly where the Google
map shows. Instead you have to try to distinguish the many roads
and rivers from the road with the fence along it. The DMZ is
nominally four kilometers wide. Its middle is the armistice line
itself, the Military Demarcation Line, or MDL.
One interesting feature of the DMZ is that for considerable stretches
there is heavy vegetation within it that ends at the northern edge.
This may indicate security measures just outside the DMZ or heavier
land use for farming. Despite the fact that no one is supposed to be
inside the DMZ (it is heavily mined) I was originally perplexed by the
fact that there seem to be villages within the Zone near Dora. In fact
there is indeed a village on the southern side where a small number of
long-time residents are permitted to continue living and farming. To be
equal, the North built their own village, but apparently have not
populated it with working farmers.
Our bus tour stayed strictly outside the DMZ on the South Korean side
(right and bottom edges of diagram).
Nonetheless, the tour was within a security area, starting at the
river's edge.
In Imjin, south of Freedom
Bridge we boarded our tour bus at the assigned time and took our
assigned seats. The bridge was sprinkled with obstacles, forcing the
bus to weave down the road like a drunken armidilllo. One across, we
visited in turn Dorasan Station,
Dora Observatory, and the
3rd
Tunnel. The bus continued through
the security zone to the east and northeast to swing by the bus
driver's house and to a place to shop for souvenirs, before returning
to Imjim.
Dora Observatory is atop Mt. Dora. Wikipedia tells us:
"According
to legend, the last king of Silla, King Gyeongsun, dwelt nearby after he
gave up his throne to Taejo of Goryeo. Unable to return to
Silla, King Gyeongsun would walk to the top of Dorasan and weep for his
home in Gyeongju."
From Dora observatory, we could just make out the huge South Korean
flag that flies opposite a North Korean flag. The South's pole and flag
are huge, but the North would not be outdone and built the world's
tallest
flagpole (160 m). Supposedly we would have looked beyond the flags and
seen Panmunjom.
To the west we would have seen Kaesong. As it was we could see a lot of
fog and little more. King Gyeongsun might have pined the more to
have seen nothing.
The 3rd Tunnel is a tourist access into one of the four
tunnels that the South has found piercing the DMZ. It is quite deep and
hewn from the solid rock of the mountain. I tried to sudy the imagery
to find the northern end of the tunnel, but had no luck. Somehow the
tons of tunneled rock were spirited away.
It took me too much time to find Panmunjom on the satellite images,
even though it stands out
clearly if you know where to look and what to look for. Reading up in
Wikipedia, I discovered that Panmunjom is not what to look for. The
original village and treaty camp are long gone except for the "Peace Museum" marked on the map. The
latter was built in two days to house the treaty signing and is now
maintained by the North as the Peace Museum. Today, any negotiating to
be done is done in the Joint Security
Area about a kilometeer
to the east of the Peace Museum.
When not busy rattling nuclear missiles, the North has been engaging in
better relations with the South. A portion of the city of Kaesong has been designated an
Industrial Region with special tax provisions to encourage investment.
Around a dozen South Korean concerns have set up shop in the Region's Industrial Complex and are employing
North Koreans. Access is via a major road parallel to the Geongui Railroad shown on the map.
The satellite image is curious: all of the highway is intact except for
two 30 meter stretches just inside the South Korean side of the DMZ.
There trucks must exit the highway and travel over half a kilometer on
a dirt road. Just within the Northern edge, there is some kind of
barrier, perhaps tollbooths, but probably tank stoppers.
(There are tank stoppers across the highway outside the Southern
security zone. Huge weights suspended over the roadway to be
dropped to deter the advance of tanks.)
North and South Korea have concluded an agreement to open the Geongui
line, and work on the connection has been completed. The trains could
run. One side or the other has, however, failed to give final approval,
so the line sits idle.
From the DMZ outside Panmunjon, through the middle of Kaesong, and on
to Pyongyang runs the Reunification
Highway. Four lanes. If relations ever do ease, this would be
the Northern section part of a major North-South artery. For now, it is
largely idle, just like the roads west from Shanghai (factories set too
far away to hide their polution) and Cancun (tolls too high).
In building this map, I relied
on these Wikipedia references: Dorasan, DMZ,
Panmunjom
and JSA, Kaesong.
The base map is Google
satellite imagery.
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